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A tour through Shah Jahan’s intricate banquets

A tour through Shah Jahan’s intricate banquets

Foodonbook by Foodonbook
April 19, 2025
in Juices
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New Delhi–Food historian and writer Salma Yusuf Hussain’s “passion for discovering more and more about the cuisine of Mughal India” has ended in her modern-day imparting: a seminal work that transports the reader into the heart of the royal kitchens to deliver alive the lavish banquets of Emperor Shah Jahan, for the duration of whose time Mughlai delicacies actually reached its top.

“I am a published graduate in Persian, and my first activity is to translate the correspondence between native Nawabs and Rajas with British authorities, and additionally, the 1857 Mutiny papers. This gave me the expertise to read handwritten Persian files. As my job was studies-oriented, I went through numerous catalogs of various libraries. During my studies, it occurred to me that Mughal emperors who have been desirable for keeping an account of their achievements must have left behind a few food files also,” Hussain instructed IANS in an interview on the introduction of “The Mughal Feat” (Roli Books/Rs 1,495).

“This notion changed into the turning point in my existence, and my search started on the difficulty. I did encounter a handwritten account of the culinary artwork of Emperor Jahangir’s reign. I translated a complete cookbook referred to as Alwan-i-nemat, but could not submit it because of numerous motives. “At the same time (publisher), Rupa commissioned me to translate a chapter on pulao from Nuskha-i-Shahjahani, and with this, I found the other manuscript challenging. Pramodji (the Rolli writer), who is equally keen to publish books with a distinctive flavor, procured this manuscript from the British Library and translated it for me. The result is earlier than you,” Hussain introduced.

Thus, “The Mughal Feast” is a loving transcreation (adopting from one language to some other retaining its rationale, style, tone, and content) of “Nuskha-i-Shahjahani,” a cookbook that maps a culinary journey into the Mughal imperial kitchen, wherein food changed into cooked with just the proper amount of spices to enhance the base flavors of the dishes. The e-book starts with a complex and mouth-watering introduction and continues through seven chapters of recipes for Naan, Aash, Kaliya and Do-Piyazah, Bharta, Zeer Biryani and Pulao, Kabab, Harisa, Shisranga, and Khagine, and Shiriniha.

How did the cooking bug chew in the first region?

“My mother cooked the finest meals for the family’s Dawats. I used to observe her cooking and, in some instances, also helped her. Here at Curzon Road Apartment (throughout her stint with AIR), I delivered that little knowledge to exercise and advanced it using getting greater recipes from friends and neighbors. For each get-together, I might prepare a new menu with my prepared dinner, Gopalji, and felt proud when while food changed into preferred by my friends.

“Later in life, once I married an excursion operator, we entertained overseas businesses, buddies from hospitality departments, and provided meals, which was a vow. My husband, being from Lucknow, turned into my great critic. With time, my life took a unique path. I got involved with ITC, and the manner of my studies has become extra aggressive. With that, each of my events became bigger and my table was filled with delicious cuisine,” Hussain explained.

Hussain, whose books encompass the award-prevailing “The Emperor’s Table: The Art of Mughal Cuisine” (Roli Books), which acquired the National Tourism Award in 2009, the Best inside the World Gourmand Award for culinary history the same yr and a heritage volume tracing the history of eating and leisure on the Rashtrapati Bhawan, “Around India’s First Table,” is lots famous. Hussain, who contributes stories on culinary history to the Urdu phase of the BBC, turned into also became a food representative with ITC in making the menu for the Grand Maratha, the Sonar Bangla, and the Grand Central.

CASH-E-NAKHUDI

Thick sweetened lamb and vegetable soup (Serves: eight-10)

Ingredients:
Lamb, reduce into medium-sized portions, 2 kg
Ghee 2 cups/500 gm
Onions, sliced 2 cups/500 gm
Salt to taste
Ginger (adrak), chopped eight tsp/forty gm
Beetroot (chuqander), reduce into cubes 1 cup/250 gm
Carrots (gajar), reduce into cubes, one hundred gm
Turnips (Pahalgam), cut into cubes 1 cup/250 gm
Cloves (laung) ½ tsp/3 gm
Egg white 1
Sugar 3 cups/750 gJuice of a lemon (nimbu) three
Coriander (dhania) seeds, pounded eight tsp/forty gm
Almonds (badam), fried, from floor to paste, five tsp/20 gm
Rice paste 8 tsp/40 gm
Cinnamon (dalchini), ground ½ tsp/three gm
Green cardamoms (choti elaichi), ground ½ tsp/three gm
Black peppercorn (sabut kali mirch), ground 2 tsp/10 gm
Spinach (palak) ½ cup/125 gDill (soya saag) ½ bunch
Saffron (Kesar) ½ tsp/three gm

Method:

1. Heat the ghee in a pan; upload the onions and fry till golden. Add half the lamb pieces, salt, and chopped ginger; fry till the lamb modifications color. Add sufficient water to in part cook the lamb.

2. Now, upload the beetroot, carrots, and turnips with 3 cups of water to prepare dinner for the beef and vegetables on low heat.

3. When the lamb and greens are cooked and at the least 1½ cups of water stay within the pan, separate the lamb and veggies from the stock and reserve. Strain the stock and temper it with 2 cloves; preserve it apart.

4. Make a fine mince of the ultimate lamb pieces. Make a dry do-piyazah (see pg. 218) with the mince and grind to a high-quality paste. Add the white egg and knead it into a dough. Make marble-sized balls of this mix and deep-fry in warm oil.

5. Make a sugar syrup of 1-string consistency with lemon juice (see pg. 219). Add 1/2 of the syrup to the reserved stock and bring to
a boil.

6. Add the pounded coriander seeds, almond paste, and rice paste to the inventory; blend well.

7. Sprinkle the floor with cinnamon, final cloves, cardamom, and black pepper; blend well. Add the spinach, dill, and lamb pieces; bring to a tender boil and turn off the heat.

8. Transfer right into a serving bowl. Add the last syrup to the organized soup and serve hot, garnished with saffron.

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